Super Tidy Handlebars, Noisy Bike Chains & Tyre Seating | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

(mechanism clanking) – Welcome to the GCN Tech Clinic, where I try and solve your
bike related problems, that you leave down there in the comment section
below or alternatively on all forms of social
media, using the hashtag #ASKGCNTECH So if you’ve got something
troubling you, let me know. Right, with no further ado, let’s crack on with the
first question this week that comes in from Blaz Meznar who says, ” Hi
wondering if there is any way to make mechanical cables on the cockpit look as neat as electrical. It just looks so good when
the cockpit is so clean.” – Right Blaz. Couple of things you could do here. Firstly, before you go ahead
and put your handlebar tape on over the bars, actually root those cables
to the both brake and gears, as closely as possible together. So like parallel, and tape them on with
some insulation tape. Now some people like to wrap it fully on. I just like to give a couple of bits, and just hold it firmly in place. That’s going to give a
neat appearance, really, of the cables underneath
the actual handlebar tape. But, you say about the front, it looks a little bit cluttered, I mean really that’s just
something you’ve got to accept, that you’ve got four cables there. You could I guess, heat shrink
the cables together as well, and then perform the
cuts of the heat shrink at the last possible minute
so they try and remain as one big bit, instead
of two smaller bits. But ultimately, you’re not going
to get that super clean look that you really desire, I don’t think, unless of course you go
to SRAM and eTAP setup, which is wireless, or course. Right, now we’ve got Chris Seilern who says,
“Hi John great videos. Thanks, I’m a real fan. – No problem Chris. I have an Ultegra Di2
with 52-36 chainrings and an 11-30 cassette. Unfortunately, it is always
slightly noisy in the big ring and normally quiet in the small ring. I have tried re-indexing, (myself and at the LBS)
oiling , cleaning etc. and I’ve even checked
the chain and cassette, and they look okay. The front mech does
not seem to be touching the chain either. Any ideas as to what it might be? Love this question. Chris, I’m about to call you Craig then, but right name. So, I’ve noticed this actually
on the latest generations of Ultegra and on also Dura-Ace. I’ve not tried it on the 105 yet. And I’ve also asked some pro mechanics if they’ve noticed it being
ever so slightly noisier than the previous generations. And they agreed, or at least the ones I’ve asked. Where as loads of people out there, don’t actually notice a
difference, whatsoever. But I’ve got a feeling, it could well be, because on the shadow style derailuer. what you’ve got now, there’s an increased
amount of spring tension, in the cage of the rear neck, and that, basically, seems
to be causing that noise. I’m pretty sure that’s what it is. It just seems to be something
with the jockey lug, pulling those jockey
wheels, and the chain. I think that’s where that
noise is coming from, rather than the actual chain set. I want people to get involved, actually, in the comments section down below. Have they noticed the
latest generation of Shimano is slightly, slightly nosier, it’s not an annoying noise or anything, it’s just a kind of a chain noise. Is it noisier than the previous one? Get involved in the
comments section down below, because I’m pretty sure that’s what it is, just that increased tension of the spring. Next up is Vishwa Dev who says, ”
Every time I take a tire out of the rim to change the inner tube and put it back, I find a slight wobble in the tire when I give it a spin. Is it because I’ve not put
the tire back on properly, or is there a technique
in which I can make sure the tire is perfectly
inline without the wobble? I guess it’s not properly
seated into the rim. Right, Vishwa. There isn’t really a technique for this. This sort of problem, I
guess you could call it, has only been around I can
bet the last five years. Sense to be, basically, that the tires and the rim interfaces
have become more suitable for tubeless tires. I reckon you’ve probably got a tubeless compatible rim, there, that allows the tires to pop into place. So, when you’re putting
that inner tube in, make sure it’s fully inside of the tire and inflate the inner tube inside of that, and make sure that your inner tube itself, is not bulging out between the side wall, and the actual bead of the tire and the inner side wall of the rim. What I like to do, is
not go ahead and inflate, and just hope it pops into place, but actually try and massage
or massage the tire into place, and get that to actually find
its way on the rim correctly, rather then allowing you to pump away and… I never liked the big
popping or clicking noise. that the tire makes, but there’s no real fail
safe technique I guess, you could use something.. Some people out there use
like washing up liquid on the wheel, on the inside of the rim, just to try to help it slide into place, But then you have to wash it off, so that that way of course you can break, your breaks aren’t going to work, because you’ve got soap on them. Also you can use talcum powder, that’s something which
I put inside sometimes, to try to help them slide into place, but give that a go and hopefully, you won’t find it so
troublesome going forward. Next up we’ve got Nur Muhhamad Hanif who says, ” Hey John, I’m planning on converting
my 2x road bike to a 1x. The only deraileur with a
clutch mechanism Shimano offer for road bikes, is the Ultegra RX. I was wondering if the
mountain bike rear deraileurs are cross compatible with
the road gruppo parts. They all have a similar Shadow design, and have a clutch mechanism, but for less than half of the
price of the Ultegra RX rd. I was wondering if I could
get the same function, and maybe the performance
from the Deore instead.” – Alright love this one,
yep possible to do it. Probab;y give it away really. Secrets that some people
don’t want me to give away but yeah , you get yourself a Wolf Tooth Tanpan – Wolf Tooth Components Which goes on to the deraaileur body, so when your cable goes
in your anti cable, instead of it going all the way, you put this little roller, it’s a wheel there instead, and what that does is
it adjusts the amount of cable that your lever is giving, and it means it works with
amazing point rear back. (smack) Thank me later. Next up is, Popula who’s says, ” Hi
GCN, my sora R3000 groupset can shift up the cassette by three gears but only on the small cogs (11-16) on the bigger cogs it
will only shift two gears. The third click can be forced
by pulling the cable by hand, Tightening the cable
just ruins the indexing.” – Right, (smack) this ones sounds like it’s probably your limit screw. So it works down at the
higher end of the block, to the 11 to 16. So I
reckon you need to turn the H screw in a way. Because as your gank through the gears, the cable tension is becoming…. It’s very, very hard to explain this. The (murmur) gank screw is pulled through the cable
again and just tighten that up. (sighs) and then it indexes the gears. It may well work okay. I don’t see any problem why it wouldn’t. What’s happened previously, in the previous steps, is just trying to explain this
in the easiest way possible, is you are taking up
the slack in the cable and eventually to runs out, and you don’t have any more room for it. It is very very difficult to explain. So go on ahead, play with the H screw, and just adjust the cables, index it. What you need to consider
here too is actually, It sounds really, really daff because I know right you thinking self, but I want to be able to
change those three gears, but how often do you need
to do that on your bike? But I’m a real perfectionist
when it comes it, is something doesn’t work properly, I will faffer and I’ll not go to bed, I will waste so much time
trying to solve something. But you don’t really need to ever, be able to change those 3 gears at once. But do those steps I’ve mentioned, and I reckon it will be sorted for you. Or alternatively it could
well be your mech hanger, slightly out of line, and it means that once that cable , once the deraileur, works its way over, its just got more work to do , but with the same a amount of cable cord. Bikes the are not as
easy as everyone thinks. Next up we have got [email protected] @tankiematelow Sep 24 who says, “Can I replace my Tiagra
Fc=4700 Crankshaft with a 105 FC-R7000 without issues, Trek Checkpoint ALR BB86. 5. Thanks”=Yeah no problems at all mate, both of them are Shamano
and Hollow Tech 2, go ahead and do it, ikt will work fine. Next up is Al who says, ” Is it me
or are road disc brakes way more tedious to keep running nicely as opposite to mtb discs? Rotor rub , ticking after
heavy breaking… Why? Why? – Okay I suppose one of the reasons that, Maybe road bikes, disc
brakes give you a hard time , because that basically the
reservoir on the levers, on the shifters on a road bike, is a bit smaller then that on a mountain , bike traditionally, and what you are asking it
to do is the same operation . It’s kind of a scaled down version , of what the mountain bike setup is, but I think we need to
lay off disc brakes, they are not actually that
troublesome whatsoever, I just think as technology and actual mechanics and the Building , off disc brakes on road
bike improved as goes on. They will be without that problem, Just like mountain bikes disc
brakes when they started, they had their problems and they’ve gone. And road bikes are they really
(murmur) problems solved? I can go on-and-on about that. But I think give them a
bit of an easier time out. The Neon Matt now and
ultimate one this week. TheNeonMatt says” I have some
wheels with a worn out braking surface in the garage , Is
it safe for me yo use them” – Nice question, not really
thought about this before. I wouldn’t advise it, the reason being, if your brakes are worn out ot means, that the structural
integrity of the whole wheel is not going to be as intended, so where the spokes are
pulling from the rims , from that area eyelets, they then can be under more stress, then normal leading to
a failure of collapse . And absolutely not something
I would ever advise. What you could do though is just buy yourself a cheap rear end wheel. That’s what I did many many years ago, just bought myself a really cheap basic , I think it was like e
a !0 speed Hubble mat, I just put turbo trainers tires
on that and just used those. And that was my dedicated turbo wheel, but don’t use something that
is basically broken already. – Right okay. Once and for all, anything 10 speed and up.
Road or mountain bike, There will be people saying,
Yes it dose, I have done it.” That’s absolutely fine , I’m sure it is, but some of us maybe slightly fussu. I don’t know I will
leave that one with you, but what you can get is Wolf Tooth Tanpan difficult one fpr me
to say for some reason. Again adjust it the actual
cable and get way with.. That really is about all I can suggest… Yes in the past people have done all sorts trying to root the cable
in a different path of the cable clamp and things
to try to get it to work. But I’ve been told those
WolfTooth things work pretty well. Right, like I said. If you’ve
got yourself a tech problem, leave it with me down there
in the comment section below. And I’ll do my best to answer
it in and upcoming episode. Remember as well to share
this video with your friends. Don’t forget to check out the GCN shop For more great videos
c;ick just down here. Aqnd I’ll be back soon
with another Tech Clinic.

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100 thoughts on “Super Tidy Handlebars, Noisy Bike Chains & Tyre Seating | GCN Tech Clinic #AskGCNTech

  1. I have a 6800 Ultegra set and recently upgrade to a 12-28 Dura Ace 9100 Cassette. I have noted that the noise level with the larger chainring (48) has increased, especially with the lower gears. perhaps it is the actual construction of the group set.

  2. I have a question…one that has probably been asked before… Why do UK riders have their Front brake lever alongside their Rear mech shifter, and the Rear brake lever alongside the Front mech shifter? It is so counterintuitive…

  3. For Vishwa's question about tire seating, try this: Inflate the tire very slightly so that it has a round shape. Put one bead of the tire on the rim. Put the tube in the tire. Put the second tire bead on the rim. Deflate the tube completely. Roll the wheel along the floor with some force – go a few revolutions so that the tire beads are pushed down into the rim and seat completely. Then, inflate the tube to about half pressure. Check rim bead seating and deflate the tube. Pump up to desired pressure.

  4. Indexing issue by popula: It's possible the shifter was not in the highest gear when you attached the cable to the rear derailleur. Remove the cable from the rear der. Make sure the rear der is in the smallest cog (and like John said, make sure the H limit screw is set such that the derailleur jockey wheels are in line with the small cog). Make sure the shfiter is in the highest possible gear (i.e. push the inner lever multiple times until it won't push any more). Now attach the cable to the derailleur and set the cable tension.

    Another possibility is that the cable slipped from the fixing bolt. When you attach the cable, make sure it's routed through the rear der properly and that it's locked tight in place by the fixing bolt

  5. I have found that the chain lube I use makes a difference to the noise of my drive chain. I now use RIDE MECHANIC'S "BIKE SYRUP" and my R8000 Mechanical is very quiet.

  6. I got really excited on hearing about this tanpan product. So I could use a deore XT rear mech rather than a GRX over priced job……went straight on eBay. £36 !!!!!!! Well that blew away any cost saving !

  7. I have a DI2 6870 and mine is noisy as well. I’ve completely re-cleaned and tuned it all up in efforts to loose that persistent noise… No luck! It’s always in the back of my head but just have to deal with it I guess

  8. Have also noticed the noise on the R800 Ultegra di2 vs the previous generation. One thing I have noticed is the bottom jockey wheel is not as parallel to the top as the previous version. When I first noticed the extra noise I thought because it was bent but then saw the same slight angled jockey wheels at a bike shop. There is also one particular large front chainring to rear cassette combo that is extra noisy. I though maybe it’s a defect in once of the cassette rings or the cassette not being torqued up correctly but check everything. Even put grease between each cassette and the plastic spacers didn’t decrease the noise. A different ratio cassette is still noisy.

  9. Hi John, i live in Ireland, its rains a lot so i have decided to start saving for new bike with disc brakes. My question is should save for the carbon bike or there is some better alternate for less money. I have target to save max up to €2k .

  10. New Shimano 105 also has a bit of chain noise. Not objectionable, but perceptible. I tried to sort it out to no effect, everything is setup properly. I accepted it as is when I noticed new Ultegra does that, too.

    Got mechanical TRP Spyre flat mount disc brakes on that 105 bike and it is the quietest road disc system I've handled. Of course, got to periodically adjust the pads, but I'm super satisfied with them.

  11. Running a Di2 R8050 with Ultegra 6800 and I've noticed in the big ring and the 2 largest cogs there is more noise than before Di2.

  12. I noticed the louder chain noise on my DI 2 Ultegra. Tried adjusting, lubing and cleaning, no change.. Started listening to music and now it's fine.

  13. Hi John. I have got the same noise on the big ring and a silent smal ring on my 105 5800 group set. Same on my TT bike with fsa trimax crsnkset and dura ace 9000 rear mech. Both don't have shadow reach mech as far as I know.

    I noticed it at first an the turbo trainer. And now it can't be unheard outside.

  14. I had a rear rim with a worn brake surface rupture and peel back the brake surface around 1/4 of the rim. Sounded like a shotgun blast. I was going slow so no crash. Don't under estimate catastrophic failure. If it is worn don't use it.

  15. Hi Jon,
    Just watched the video and my ears 👂🏼 pricked up at the noisy Ultegra DI2 drivetrain.
    I bought a new Tarmac Pro earlier this year with R8000 DI2…52/36 – 11/30. The noise is definitely noticeable in the big ring. Never in the small ring. Took it back to dealer a month later and he said that he couldn’t hear/ see anything.
    Glad I’m not the only one with this problem. I’m hoping there will be some way of sorting this out at some stage as now I know it’s a problem for lots of people…it will do my head in!

  16. I don't think the new Shimano is any noisier than older groupsets.
    As for your tyre question, no talcum powder but a mix of soapy water works best. Easy to rinse off for those with rim brakes…

  17. #AskGCNTech Have you guys tried the new banana slip tungsten lube and is it really as good as it says. Thinking of buying the all weather tungsten lube but is it a gimmick

  18. I have a SRAM Apex 1 that’s being stupid noisy now as well. Can’t be the front derailleur… because there isn’t one. I think the increased spring tension is making the chain come off the chainring at a funny angle, so it’s louder than I’d like.

  19. Yes! I too notice that my Ultegra R8000 drivetrain is noisy on my Canyon Endurace. Separate question for you John – how often would you recommend that cleaning and care of the cassette on a smart trainer? (I've got an Elite Direto) Thx.

  20. I have a 2015 Cannondale SuperSix Evo w/Ultegra di2. If drive train is noisy, a good chain clean makes it completely silent. Repeat cleaning after lots of riding – chain and durailler again are dirty and making noise. Works for me.

  21. Hi John – I recently replaced my chain and cassette and, before doing so, after many rides and micro adjustments, I had the shifting running as smooth as silk (could barely notice the shifts …. nice!). However, I’ve just replaced the rear tyre and, despite using the weight of the bike on the ground to seat the wheel in the drop outs as well as using the GCN method of tightening the QR skewer, I’ve now lost that beautiful, smooth shifting. I’m loathed to adjust the indexing because it was perfect before removing and refitting the wheel. What could be causing this? Do I need a new bike? #AskGCNTech

  22. With tubeless ready rims I like to over inflate the tyre initially to 'pop' the bead into the rim, release some air and then inflate to the desired pressure – similar to the way you sometimes have to with low-profile road/race car tyres.

  23. Yes – my new Dura Ace R9100 Di2 rear mech is noisy in the big ring, not in the little. Was convinced I did something wrong to cause it. Have also tried adjustment/lube to no avail. I use Wend Wax (clean!).

  24. I don’t know about other generations, but when you started talking about the big ring being slightly noisier I knew exactly what you meant! I have the D/A 9100 and I do notice the noise compared to the inner chainring to be honest!

  25. I almost went crazy with my new ultegra r8000 groupset. In the beginning, I thought it was the front derailleur and I even went as far as removing it to be sure it wasn't the source. The higher spring tension in the system seems like a plausible reason for the overall "noisier" feel.

  26. I have the same issue with Ultegra Di2 being a little noisier when in the big ring and yes, it occurs in my bike with the newest shadow rear mech and not in my bike with the previous generation Ultegra rear mech (both bikes are Di2 and both shift perfectly). Actually I am glad Jon covered this. It hadn't occurred to me before it is due to slightly increased tension in the shadow system but it makes perfect sense.

  27. For a good looking clean cockpit regarding cables GCN do you remember the Dynamic Bicycles Synergy a road bicycles with internal bicycle hub; they have a very clean looking cockpit

  28. #AskGCNTech I've had 3 Shimano BR-RS785 road brake calipers fail (always on the rear), either through cracked pistons or otherwise leaking oil (and in the process contaminating the pads and disc) is there a known fault with these, and is there a compatible replacement that us much more reliable such as MTB calipers (as I've heard they have very few problems these days)?

  29. Sorry but, saying that problems are all gone on mtb's disc brake systems is quite inaccurate. Still plenty of brake squealing, rubbing and friction due to poor piston retractions, brake fading on long descents, etc. Still not perfect by any stretch of the imagination and roadies with discs will experience the same frustration. Probably why rim brakes are not disappearing in the pro peloton.

  30. I have the current ultegra group set as well and went insane about this noise issue when I first got the bike. Only in the big chain ring… Don't have any experience with previous group sets and spend hours and hours adjusting the shifting and even handed it to the bike shop. Now I have just accepted it and continue to use the smaller chain ring more because it is so much more quiet.

  31. Just built a bike a few weeks ago with the same Ultegra R8000 52/36T chainset and 11-30 cassette. I also noticed that while the shifting is improved (smoother) over the R6800 group, when in the 52T and around 19-21 cogs, it is a little noisier than I would have expected. Not terribly bad but just a noticeable hummmmm.

  32. It is far harder to align a flat mount disc caliper with the rotor than on a post mount. Have both and flat mount doesn't have the adjustability that the post mount does. As far as tire mounting is concerned tapping the tire with a mallet after inflating can help seat the tire properly around the rim. Just did that when remounting my tire on my rear rim.

  33. #AskGCNTech How do some manufacturers achieve a “silent” free wheel? I have a new Orbea Avant with Di2 and the Fulcrum wheels, and the bike is silent. I love it but can’t figure out how they do it and if there is a benefit to my silent rear hub.

  34. My chain has been noisy in the big ring, I think maybe it's jockey wheels – if they wear down on the inside/aren't lubricated, extra friction

  35. Latest Dura Ace Di2 is definitely more noisy. I’ve noticed this, and so did some riding friends after I got my new bike (R5). LBS tried to adjust it etc but still sounds the same. Functionally great but the noise detracts a bit from the zen kind of feeling when on a long solo ride.

  36. I'm actually glad to see this video, because I just picked up a canyon endurace with ultegra di2, and I thought I was crazy for thinking it was a little louder than I expected it to be. Still love the group set and the bike, though! has anybody else found that the noisiness is worse with dry lube than with wet lube? My solution has been cleaning my chain and cassette after almost every ride, and using wet lube regardless of conditions.

  37. avoid liquid soaps when mounting tires, they can be corrosive and you likely have some left inside the rim that you can't wash off.

  38. Hey Jon! Love your show. I ride an 11-25 rear cassette on my Cervelo S5 along with a 52/36 chain set which works great for my local training rides in Central South Carolina. However, I do a lot of riding/Gran Fondos upstate (i.e. in the Mountains) and need to switch to an 11-28 or 11-30 to help with the steeper/longer climbs. Will I need to add links to my chain to support the larger cogs? Thank you!

  39. For the dude wanting to go 1x on Shimano with hydro brakes and a large cassette, don't bother with the tanpan and just get a Shimano GRX 600 or 800 rear mech.

  40. I've got 105 5800 on my road bike, and the big ring has always been a little bit noisier, so I guess it's probably always been an issue with Shimano 11 speed. I wonder if it was a compromise for better shifting performance or something.

  41. I had a noisy chain on my 9150 setup until I changed the jockey wheels. Picked up a cheap 12/16 tooth Chinese set and the noise disappeared.

  42. #AskGCNTech

    Hello, I have an older Argon 18 Gallium with full Sram Red group. I would like a bike with disc brakes but cant afford to make the change, plus I really like this bike. Since the front wheel does most of breaking, could i change the forks and add front disc brakes and keep rim breaks on the back?

    I mentioned this at my bike shop and they thought it was a little stupid. I feel it might be the best of both worlds, by saving weight (rear rim breaks are lighter) and improving breaking.

    Vancouver Canada

  43. Roadbikes wanting to go 1x, Shimano GRX… check it out. I converted my touring bike. Works great, no need for the tanpan. The rear mech will handle up 46t I think.

  44. FEEDBACK REQUESTED. My R8000 drivetrain suffers the dreaded noise mostly in mid cassette. Rear derailleur is a long cage of which arcs very slightly outward away from the wheel (viewed from behind the bike) creating a slight variance in alignment from the top jockey wheel (came new in this condition). My drivetrain seems quieter the more it crosschains. Perhaps its designed this way for larger cog capacity? Shifting is excellent. I have tried KMC and SHIMANO chains with no difference in noise.

  45. Just upgraded from Shimano 105 10 speed r5600 to 105 11 speed r7000 and I think it is definitely noisier around the rear derailleur cage and jockey wheels. It is most noticeable when riding near a wall or deep curb that causes an echo. However, it is not terrible and overall I'm very happy with r7000.

  46. I have the noise at the 105 level too. It's at the upper jockey wheel on mine. I took it apart a while ago and the problem seemed to be that the bushing interface has a tendency to rattle under certain chain tensions. When I had it in my hand I could reproduce the noise a bit by moving the wheel back and forth over the bushing. On the bike, it only happens in the big ring, and it gets quieter as I move down the cassette and reduce chain tension. I lightly greased them when I had them apart and it seemed to help a little. I haven't tried this, but if chain tension is part of the problem, it might also help to use a slightly longer chain. Perhaps our chain-sizing methodology needs an update. I suspect a different jockey wheel is the real solution though.

  47. Re Ultegra chain noise – I too am using R8070 Ultegra with 52/36 and 11-30 cassette and have faffed around for hours trying to resolve the chain noise – Ive degreased and loobed it , replaced the chain with kmc chain and reverted back to shimano chain – all in vain. Its got me beat – so guess I gotta live with it. Tried most of the suggestions below but the noise remains. Ride with it.

  48. I have the road tire seating problem when replacing a tube after a flat and using a CO2 cartridge to fill it. Also, I’m using a clincher tyre (Conti 5000) on a tubeless rim. It’s really irritating : /

  49. 100% I have R8000 Di2 and Dura Ace 9000 Di2 the Dura ace is quite compared to the Ultegra I thought it was down to the jockey wheels but since updated to 9150 Di2 front and rear mech and there is chain noise now.

  50. Absolute bike tech novice. I have started to get chain rub when I get out the saddle. It's always at the same place in the pedal stroke and goes away when I am seated. Presumably/hopefully this is something quite simple but as I said … Bike tech novice.

  51. I been seating clincher tyres by inflating to 10-20 psi, the bouncing the whole assembly on ground. Been doing this since mid 80's.

  52. I wonder if the guy with a tyre bulge is pushing the valve up into the tyre fully, then pulling it back down before full inflation?

  53. #askgcntech Jon, how do i calibrate a Right hand side only powermeter? The instructions show a LHS only powermeter in the 6 oclock position but when i do this my RHS meter is reading 20-30W lower than both my wahoo kickr core and my 4iii powermeter.

  54. It should be possible to route the cables inside the bars, through the stem, down the steerer tube, out the bottom and into the bottom of the downtube.
    Though that would add some rather tight bends, especially between the tyre and fork.
    neater still would be to have a hole in the front of the steerer to allow cables through from the stem, then out of a 180 degree slot in the steerer straight into the frame tubes.
    This would significantly weaken the steerer tube, though, and runs the risk of guillotining the cables if the bars turn too far.
    I decided against it when I built my own bike, which had an integral stem so would have made it slightly easier than usual.

  55. Noise on my R8020 as well, even though my chainset is FSA SL-K with 46/30. It's set up perfectly so I've been wondering if it's FSA problem, apparently not.

  56. Another option for the 1x conversion is the wolf tooth roadlink. Means you don't have to replace your exisiting road mech!

  57. Regarding changing 3 gears at once (and specifically "not needing" to be able to do it): I suppose I agree regarding a strict "need", but I personally find it really useful when pulling up to traffic lights, and wishing to change into a gear suitable for pulling away again. I really notice it even when switching from a bike with 3-gear skipping vs 2-gear!

  58. Advice on 'worn out' rims seems unduly conservative! (I have lots of experience of using rims beyond the advised marked limit, no problems so far!). However, on a turbo, if the rim did crack, what's the worst that would happen? Not a lot I would submit….. Nick W

  59. I have been using 9170 dura-ace groups for a year and I can say it is way noisier than 9070. The difference is obvious. I have tried different brand chains and lubricants but no improvement so far.

  60. The new drivetrains are slightly louder due to the aforementioned increased chain tension. It’s not that bad. See your doctor about that OCD.

  61. I've noticed slightly more noise on the big ring with 105 (5800 series). That certainly explains why it is louder on the middle gears of the cassette than the higher gears. Glad to know it isn't a mechanical issue I couldn't find.

  62. Wondering about bike stiffness. I'm and always will be a larger rider 215–240. What carbon aero bikes handle the larger riders the best? The hang up I've had, is with disc brakes. Anytime I put flex out of the saddle the brakes rub like crazy and definitely slow me down, which for a bigger guy in climbs or even sprints can be quite bothersome. Thanks in advance!!! #AskGCNTech

  63. I'm so glad to hear this about the noisier big ring! It's been driving me nuts forever, glad to know that it's just normal. Waxing the chain does quiet it down for about 200 miles

  64. Another question for you, John:- on my winter bike, I run a Shimano 5700 105 groupset, with short arm rear derailleur, 50/34 chainset, and a 12-30 cassette. (All passed on from my summer bike, which I upgraded to the new R7000 groupset, with an 11-32 rear cassette). I don't know whether it's my increasing age, the extra weight of the bike, or just that I've got used to the 32 tooth bottom gear on the summer bike, but I'm feeling a real need to drop the bottom gear on the winter bike to 32, or even 34. The cassette is no problem, but my difficulty is identifying which derailleur I can use. The current short-arm derailleur won't, its right in its limit at 30 (not surprising when Shimano list the maximum at 28, the long-arm equivalent doesn't appear to have greater capability:- and I believe that Shimano 10 speed MTB derailleurs use a different pull ratio, so are not compatible with my shifters.

    Any bright ideas? Thanks, Nick Wells, North Yorkshire

  65. Not 1x (I have a 50/34 on the front) but to get MTB gearing on my Diverge, I have Shimano CS-HG500 11-42T Deore Cassette and Shimano Deore M591 9 Speed Mech. The road shifters are Tiagra from 2015. Apparently the older (pre-shadow) 9 speed MTB mechs have the same pull as road 10speed. It mostly works, but I have trouble with sprocket 6 as the chain tends to jump over this one. To be honest, the indexing was not great on the original Tiagra mech. I know I should have got that working before the switch, but just ran out of time. I had a 'date' with Hardknott Pass and wanted the easy gears. I think my issue is the hanger as the threads are damaged where the mech screws in. While the hanger may be straight, the thread damage may be pulling the mech out of line. I just need to source a new hanger, which due to the SCS debacle is not that simple these days.

  66. #AskGCNTech  This may be an opportunity for some science!  Is there ever a point with a strong enough tailwind that it makes more sense to not be aerodynamic?  For instance, would it ever be more beneficial to "sit-up" on the bike so the wind can push you more from behind, as opposed to being down in an aero position?

  67. I recently got a new pair of FFWD carbon wheels. After around 400 km now the brakes sometimes squeak like a pig at a butchers. It‘s not this vibration sound I know from my old aloi rims. Already toed in the pads but didn‘t solve the problem. I use the pads that came with the wheels. Any ideas? BTW love the channel. Good work!

  68. Aaaaah, thank you for the comments about the noise of the new ultegra groupset. Have the mechanical version with an RX mech and it‘s really loud in some sprockets. Also that it‘s so hard to get the wheel in and out is getting on my nerves. No, I prefer the old 6800 on my other bike… Looks are not everything!

  69. #AskGCNTech Shimano Tourney A070 3 speed front derailleur issue: I followed step by step the user manual when I replaced the factory cable to a Shimano Optislick. When the bike is on the stand I can shift in all 3 gears easy and correct. I jump on the bike and then I can't shift from the middle to the low gear. I put the bike back on the stand, adjust again the cable tension, all works fine, I jump on the bike and now I can't shift on the big ring. I have a jagwire cable adjuster installed inline – could the problem be the adjuster that is not helping at all?

  70. What a ridiculous questions 😉 the Indian sora guy get some reasonable set, the other Indian get some massage (yourself and then try again), the first question made my day at all 😜😝🙋

  71. Thanks! Yes I can confirm that the new 105 is indeed noisy, hadn't really noticed it though until you pointed it out, now it's all I hear! Arrrrrrrrr

  72. SOAP! The guy who can't get his tire seated correctly just needs to use a little dish soap on the bead. This is an ancient fix that you want to do anyway because it helps prevent pinching the tube too.

  73. To the guy asking about disc brake noise, ticking, etc., most road bike caliper flat frame mounts are not machined correctly to the perpendicular of the thru axle, and thus not aligned to the disc. Park tool makes a caliper flat mount checking/facing tool but it's over $500 and most shops don't have one, much less ever heard of one.

  74. Hi, Is it me or is the new Ultegra front mech not as good as the previous one? I'm having trouble getting it to have range without rubbing. What I mean is I can only get it to work in the either in the little ring and the large sprocket (39-30) but then when I move it to the large ring it won't move across enough to let the chain into the 11 sprocket without it rubbing. (Its the bottom 3 sprockets without rubbing.) It will only go down to just pass the middle of the cassette. Or I can set it up so it doesn't rub in the 52-11 but then it will rub in the 36-30. (Or the top 3 sprockets) Hope I've explained it ok. Thanks

  75. Before taking aluminium wheels with worn brake tracks out of use we were obviously happy to ride them, so they don't just suddenly become useless – even though they can fail if you take them too far. Quite a few rims have wear marks so we can change them before they become dangerous. I check the thickness of the rim using an Iwanson gauge. Google the allowable thickness/stress on sidewalls. I've rebuilt worn rims onto my disc braked wheels without problem. Note that these were aluminium – I don't know about carbon. I once had a rim fail – the side fractured and the rear wheel locked when the tyre jammed on the frame. If that happened on a trainer I don't think you'd be injured and I don't see how the wheel would collapse. Quite small deflections of the rim will de-stress the spokes and nullify any stored energy. I think John is commenting with an eye on his insurance.

  76. #AskGCNTech Hi Jon, love the show and can't wait for the next videos, always full of good advice ! I have bought a pair of Recon Jet Smart Glasses back in May 2019, and I've been enjoying it until last week, when they started powering up and down randomly, sometimes in mid or a training session… As a tech Support engineer, I've tried to check on the problem as it is not battery related (installed a brand new unused one), and I'm coming down to a bit of corrosion on the connectors between the computer part of the smart glass and the copper bits at the very end of the lens !
    My vendor refused to take that into warranty though I've been insisting heavily… Thing is that it is probably sweat related and happened though believe me, I've been extra careful to wiping out any sweat drops after each training session. I cannot find spare parts either… Do you have any idea how I can sort this out at all ? Thanks for any suggestions you may have and keep up with the good show 🙂

  77. Durace 9150 Di2 here… also noisy when on the big ring! The strange thing is that at the beginning I was not recognising this difference… maybe I was not paying attention due to the joy to ride the new bike 🙂 🙂 🙂
    at least this comment from John confirms that at the end I'm not dumb 😀

  78. After I fixed/tuned the screw limit on the front mech my hub sounds weird(dunno if it's the hub), pls help

  79. #AskGCNTech I have an Cannondale R2000 with Shimano Ultegra 6500 group set. Everything still works, however the shifter controlling the rear derailleur has worn to the point where when shifting up from the lower gears (bigger cogs) it will shift up 3. I compensate by immediately shifting down 2, but this is obviously less than ideal. Which modern shifters would best replace my worn 9 speed STI shifters?
    P.S. Love you guys! Please keep up the great work!

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