Shimano 105 Vs Shimano Dura-Ace | What’s The Difference?


(mechanical noises) – Shimano released a new version of their 105 groupset in 2018. Frankly, it seems great
but how does it compare to their top of the range Dura-Ace? – Well, we’re gonna show you and even attempt a blind test. Can we feel the difference even if we can’t see it? – Have we worked out how
we’re gonna do that yet? (beep) – Let go of your conscious self, act on instinct. – But with their blind shield down, I can’t even see. How am I supposed to be able to fight? I mean shift? – Your eyes can deceive you, don’t always trust them. Stretch out with your
feelings, Luke, I mean Si. (beep) – [Simon] For transparency,
Shimano has sponsored this video but the content within
it was entirely up to us. Which is why you’ve been
watching us do Star Wars. – In case you’re unfamiliar, here’s a quick run down of Shimano’s groupset
hierarchy for road bikes. So Shimano’s entry
level groupset is Claris and that has eight gears at the back. Next comes Sora, that has
nine gears at the back, and then Tiagra, with 10. We have 105 here and that’s
the mid level groupset and that has 11 gears. Beyond that, you have
Ultegra, also with 11, and then the range
topping Shimano Dura-Ace, which Shimano says is
built to meet the demands of professional cyclists. – Yeah, as you go up through
those tiers of groupset, you see a decrease in weight, you see, of course, an increase in price, and up to 105, you see, as Ollie said, an increase in gears. But you also see an awful lot of hallmarks of Dura-Ace at those lower
price points as well. – The reason for this is the top-end tech developed for the range topping Dura-Ace, trickles down into the more
affordable groupsets like 105. So, what is actually the difference? Is Dura-Ace better than 105? And if so, by how much and why? (upbeat music) – The first experiment is
fortunately very simple. It does not require
blindfolds or the force, we are just going to weigh
all the different components and then show you the difference. To do that, we’ve got
ourselves a Dura-Ace groupset with mechanical shifting
and hydraulic disc brakes because then that then matches
the 105 groupset we have, which of course has mechanical shifting and also has the new
hydraulic disc brakes. – Visually, both groupsets
have roughly the same shape, so we’re going to see the real difference using the GCN scales of truth.
– Oooh. – [Ollie] First up, the chainsets. – Yeah, I’m a big fan,
Ollie, of the 105 chainset. In fact, it’s probably one
of the ultimate examples of trickle down technology. I mean look at them, it shares the same silhouette as Dura-Ace. It’s now got that same asymmetric four bolt chainring pattern. It’s got the same axle diameters. I mean yeah, it just doesn’t quite have that same finish on it, does it? – No, it’s very nice. – But it’s not super nice. – Exactly. – But how much does it weigh? 758 grams. – And just for point of reference, that’s a 52-36, with 172.5 crank arms. – Right, you ready?
– Yeah, so the Dura-Ace. – 637 and you will also
see another key difference now we’ve turned them around and that is that the 105
chainring is one piece whereas the Dura-Ace is two pieces. Now, it’s important because
the chainring’s stiffness has a real bearing on shifting quality. So in order to get stiffness
built into that 105 chainring you can see they’ve got all
these cut outs at the back. They’re to save weight. Whereas Dura-Ace has that two piece design meaning you get stiffness and lightweight. – Next up, we have the shifters, so let’s pop ’em on. 620 grams for the pair. – 537 grams for the pair. – Next up is the front mech. Now we have a slight problem
we need to disclaim here which is our Shimano 105
is a braze on front mech and the Dura-Ace one we’ve
been sent is a band on. So that should be a little bit
heavier than a braze on one but let’s weigh them nonetheless and see. – 95 grams versus 86, it’s still lighter. – In case you were wondering, the quoted weight for the
braze on Dura-Ace front mech is just 66 grams. – Yup, important trickle
down tech here too Ollie. When the Dura-Ace groupset
was launched in 2016, this design was pretty revolutionary. It’s called a toggle cam design. 105 followed up with the
exactly the same one in 2018. – Rear mechs now. 105, 227. – And in the same shadow plus design, it is 161. (beep) The Dura-Ace one is just sexier and I know that’s weird because I’m talking about a
rear derailleur but it is. (beep) – Time for the cassettes. Now slight disclaimer, our 105 cassette is slightly
bigger than our Dura-Ace one in that it’s an 11-34 ratio, our Dura-Ace is 11-28, so that should mean there’s
a slight weight increase just for that fact as well, but let’s weigh them nonetheless. – 354. Versus (whistles) 196. – The hydraulic brake calipers now. So 105,
– 109, hey. 97.
– There’s not much in that. – Close. – We’re now gonna weight the rotors, they’re both 140 millimeters. So let’s see how much she weighs. So there you have the weights. Now although the shapes
of all the components are very similar, Dura-Ace
consistently features lighter and more exotic materials such as carbon fiber being
employed on the shifters and also even in the cassette. – Yeah and the rear mech too and not only different materials, but also more expensive
manufacturing techniques as well. So like greater level of
machining on the rear mech, that outer chainring that
we mentioned earlier, and even things like the
bearings in the pulley wheels. (beep) I mean that one is nice and that one is just really hot. (beep) – Marginal gain to reduce
drivetrain friction. Now the total difference in weight between the two sets of components
we’ve weighed today is just 469 grams and
the biggest difference actually comes from the
chainset at 127 grams, which is either gonna be a lot
of maybe not that much to you depending on your perspective. – Yeah, but don’t forget that weight does ultimately translate
to performance as well out on the road, in what you can feel on your bike, and also what you can
measure in terms of time. So if you employ mathematical models you can calculate roughly
how long it would take you to ride up Alpe d’Huez at a certain power on a certain bike weight. If you lose one kilo, you’ll
save about 30 seconds. Now, that may not be all that much but it may be hugely significant to you. – If you’re trying to win the Tour. – Yeah. – We’re now going to
compare the new Shimano 105 with Dura-Ace mechanical. We’re gonna ride both
groupsets blindfolded and then myself and Si are gonna see if we can
tell the difference. – That’s right. Unfortunately, it’s raining
outside today isn’t it? So rather than do these
tests on the open road and risk getting our high
performance blindfold damp, as you can see, we’ve elected to do it on
the indoor trainer instead. – Yeah, that’s the only reason. – It is, yeah. Now, the game, should
you choose to play it is guess the groupset. Firstly, a glamorous
assistant will be handling the gear shifting duties with
out rider slash test pilot, not allowed to touch the
shifters or even the handle bars. – And then we’re gonna do a second test where the rider is able to
place their hands on the hoods but still blindfolded and the point of this test
is to see if the hoods feel noticeably different
between the two groupsets and also the lever action
when you’re changing gear. – Can you tell the difference
through the pedals? Can you tell the difference
through the shifters? – We should also point
out that the bikes have the same contact points and
the same saddle as well. – They do. This could totally catch on, couldn’t it? He’s ready, right Ollie, come on in fella. Right, just gonna
disorientate you slightly. Just turn around for me. – Oh god. – I’m gonna keep you walking
in this direction now. There’s your seat. – I’ll tell you what, getting on without touching the bars. (laughing) There’s one, oh yes. So pedal and I’m gonna see if I can tell, that feels very smooth, it’s very nice. Nice change, nice and smooth. I think that was a
front mech change there. At this point now, I couldn’t pick whether this is Dura-Ace or 105, at this point I couldn’t tell you. – Test number two, I’m
gonna guide your hands to the handlebars. There we go, those are your levers. – I’m trying to feel
the girth of the hood. – Okay, you do that in private Ollie. I don’t think we want to be here for that. (laughing) – I mean that, I don’t know,
is that 105, is that Dura-Ace? – If you step off the
left-hand side of the bicycle. Alright, I promise I
won’t let no harm come at this point to ya. There you go, there’s your bike. (upbeat music) – That’s smooth, that. (shifting gears) I’m not just going off feel here, I’m trying to go off all my
other senses that I still have and it sounds to my
ears, slightly different. Sounds a little bit
quieter than the other one. Right, hands on the hoods, the girth assessment. You know what? That feels the same. – Well, that would be a curve ball, but it’s not out of the question. – Is this a trick? Have you like–
– I might have tricked you. – Have you put me on the same one again? – I might have tricked you. That is the kind of thing I would do. – If I had to bet on this and
my life depended on it, I fear a very real possibility of losing. I think this might be Dura-Ace. – Dura-Ace he says, Ollie,
remove the blindfold. It’s Dura-Ace! (laughing) – While Si is out of the room, I’m gonna swap the two bikes around. He doesn’t know I’m doing this, but it’s just to try and
mess with him a bit more. Okay. Just gonna perform some
disorientation exercises. – Right. – It’s one of my roles
as a glamorous assistant. – Are you looking glam? – Yeah. – I had no idea the GCN studio set was quite this big actually. – There’s the saddle. – Oh right. Whoa, I did not expect
it to be there, right. – I’ll change gear for
you first when you’re on. You want to get off that? – Close or not, right go on then. – Come on, completely redo the
disorientation exercise again (laughing) There’s the saddle. – Right. – Right, you’re clipped in. I’m gonna change gear for you now. – Right mate, that’s that. – And see what you can do. See what it feels like. (shifting gears) – Well, I’m glad you don’t
handle my shifting duties all the time, Ollie, I’m not gonna lie. (laughing) – There they are. – Right. Yeah, the actual diameters
of the lever body is small, it’s really slim, so that kinda makes you
think that maybe I am. Right, can I do some gear changing? – Go for it, go for it, shift away. – The front isn’t quite, you managed with all the
rubbish shifting you did, you did actually nail
that first shift so fast. (laughing) There’s nothing here to make me think that it’s anything other than Dura-Ace. I think the levers feel
small and super smooth and it shifts fast. – So you’re going with Dura-Ace? – I’m going with Dura-Ace, yeah. – Right, we’ll walk this way. I’m tempted to put the pedals
back on the same bike again. – Okay. – Okay, pedal away. (shifting gears) – Well, it kind of feels the same. – Do you want to have a go on the hoods? – I wouldn’t mind a go on the hoods, yeah. Well that is confusing. The lever blades feel the same. The lever body diameter feels the same. Is this the same bike? – It might be. – The way the levers
feel is kinda the same. It must be an infinite test
of all the same difference in the way the gears are set up. Ah, I was about to say this
one doesn’t feel as smooth and then it’s just felt exactly the same. Well, given my reasoning
for the first one, there was nothing there
that it wasn’t Dura-Ace. – It might be the same bike. – If the first one was Dura-Ace, this has to be 105 unless you totally screwed me over, in which case it’s Dura-Ace again. (laughing) – What kind of cop out answer is that? Well I think you’ll just
have to remove the blindfold and see for yourself. – Right, I say 105. Oh yes! – Yeah, we’re not getting fired. – Well, you say that. – Pure pot luck. – I was gonna say, yeah. Thank goodness for 50/50 odds. (laughing) Nice wig by the way. – Yeah, I wanted to look glam. – Well, now you see the results, what do you think about that? – I think it’s seriously impressive. I mean it really is hard
to tell the difference when you have that sensory
deprivation as we had and you’re just relying on the force. – [Simon] It’s also hard
to get on a bike, isn’t it? When you’ve got sensory deprivation and you’re not allowed to
hold onto the handle bars. – Yeah, but I genuinely wasn’t that sure. There were little things I was looking for like the cues of the lever
shape made it much easier and I did, you seen me say this, I did feel that one of
them was a little bit wider and I sensed it then based on that that could be the bulkier 105 shifter. But I think we need to
get down to the bottom of the ergonomics of the two shifters and see the difference. – Yeah, ’cause fundamentally, that was the thing that threw me as well. I felt like the shifting
could be slightly different and indeed that was the case. But when I held onto the lever, that completely threw me. So with the benefit of
some Vernier calipers, I won’t tell Cannings about that. Right then, so what have we got here? Dura-Ace, 35.23. Is that the same one?
– 105, yeah. – Is that the same lever? Well, it would appear, Ollie,
to be exactly the same– – At the narrowest point.
– Yeah. Length, 133. 133. Ollie, with the power of Vernier calipers, I’m gonna come out and say it, that I think we’ve been
trying a different shape between identical shaped levers. – No way, but they’re the same size? – Lever ergonomics then,
pretty darn similar and also shifter throw as well. – Yeah, it’s the same, pretty much. So weight is a significant difference, shifting performance is not. – Is that it? – No, perhaps the
biggest difference of 105 is that there isn’t an
electronic gear option. (beep) – No, but I mean it’s like it’s really, like that is a sexy rear derailleur. I’ve seen a lot in my time, but that–
– if you say so. – No, I really do. Like that two tone finish. (beep) – Both Ultegra and
Dura-Ace have a Di2 version and although we’ve been
comparing like for like with mechanical groupsets, the Di2 version of Dura-Ace
is well, much more common. – It is indeed. Simply put, the biggest step
up in shifting performance comes when you make the
leap from mechanical to electronic groupsets. And not only do you get improvement
in shifting performance, you also, when using disc brakes, get a much, much smaller lever body. So for that reason, many bike brands will spec an Ultegra
Di2 version of a bike, they will then perhaps spec a mechanical rim brake version of a bike, but then omit this option entirely. – It’s not just that though. There’s also the ratios
that are available too. So Dura-Ace is designed for the needs of professionals and racing, and consequently the biggest
cassette is an 11-30. 105 has the option to have a
larger long cage rear mech, which can accommodate up to a
34 tooth cassette on the back. – Yup, great for steep terrain
or for your gravel bike. In performance terms, we’ve spoken exclusively
about shifting up to now but of course, braking
is the other function of your groupset and in this case the actual brake calipers themselves share the same internal design. They’ve obviously got
the same ceramic pistons, as you can see, and they use the same type of pads with the cooling fins. The difference in weight comes from the difference in materials. But functionally, and as you’d hope, performance is the same. – The rotors however are
much more visually different. The Dura-Ace version
features these cooling fins which kind of render it
looking like a samurai weapon. – Yeah, now crucially, they share the same construction
of the brake tracks. So a triple layer steel aluminum sandwich which Shimano say leaves the rotors about 100 degree centigrade
cooler than an equivalent. However, those samurai cooling fins will drop that temperature
by an additional 50 degrees. Significant but not as significant as the triple layer sandwich. – You alright mate? – Yeah, I’m good. Can we take a break please? I’ve gone again. (beep) – My first carbon road
bike had Shimano 105 and I’m just a big fan of
Shimano’s mid-tier groupsets. The shifting performance
is absolutely superb, considering the price. And you know, whether you
want to conquer a Grand Fondo or even do your first race, it’s more than capable. – On its own take on it, is that Dura-Ace is the very best groupset that they can possibly make. (beep) Look at that, look at it. – It’s nice. – I really like that. (beep) And is therefore designed for cyclists that require peak performance, whereas 105 is perfect for
beginners, intermediates, even advanced cyclists who
are making equipment choices based on budget constraints
perhaps instead, or indeed situations
where peak performance might not necessarily be
the ultimate consideration. It makes me think again, you know, in terms of pure shifting performance, if you do want that next step forward, it’s gotta be electronic hasn’t it? Where of course you also
get that much smaller, neater lever body when you’re running the hydraulic disc brakes. And that is available Ultegra level too. Right, well I hope you’ve enjoyed this half as much as I have, which clearly I really have. But give it a big thumbs up if you have. – Yeah and don’t forget to subscribe, if you haven’t already. And if you’d like to watch a video comparing Ultegra with Dura-Ace, then click down here. – Right okay everyone, can
you clear the room please. Do you mind if I take that home? – Knock yourself out. (laughing)

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Post navigation

100 thoughts on “Shimano 105 Vs Shimano Dura-Ace | What’s The Difference?

  1. I think the difference is quite slim and people are lured into buying very expensive stuff. Tiagra does the job very well. That's a lot of money you can spend on a kit you like, a high end saddle that will matter a lot in the end, good protecting helmet, all the winter equipment to have a confortable ride in every conditions, good tires (maybe also having different sizes depending on the ride), a frame that you think looks awesome and will defo make you happier when you ride it, and wheels. This comment is obviously for the "normal" cyclist, not someone that races and wants every bit of performance possible no matter the cost.

  2. the best video yet! After 6 years of riding ultegra, i bought a pair of 105 sti's and zingo… they're great. zero difference. saved 200 bucks.

  3. In my experience there is almost no shifting or braking performance between the two. Weight loss of 480 grams on a 7 kg bike is quite a lot, but totally worthless if not a pro. Also I feel like 105 is a workhorse and dura-ace needs more fiddling, more often.

  4. you guys didn't mention anything about bearing surfaces, materials, etc., is it just that you dont have access to that information from Shimano, or…? aside from weight probably the most important thin….

  5. I wonder how Shimano, Sram and Camapgnolo do with lowest and highest group sets on like doing a time trial and over distance what difference there be

  6. Got the new 105 (5800) when it first came out in 2015 or whenever that was. I kid you not. I have not had to adjust the cables since then and i use my bike alot. I even took my bike on a 2000 mile euro tour. Still no adjustment to the gears and we are now into 2019. Four years so far. Dont get me wrong. I have no car and do all my shopping with my bike so my bike does see some fair amount of use. Today's 105 is yesterday's Dura Ace. You get the tech with a slightly higher weight a year or two down the road. I have had my 105 stuff last longer than duar ace in th e past

  7. Do not know about new 105, but my previous generation 105 was a nightmare in terms of indexing setup as chain rub was unavoidable

  8. Hello everyone, I have a bit of a problem picking a bike. There are two bikes I can choose from, 1. Ridley Damocles Dura Ace Carbon, 20 speed, Mavic wheels and 2. Ridley Orion, Carbon bicycle, 20 speed, Shimano Ultegra groupset, Schwalbe Durano tyres. They are both the same price and condition. I have no idea what to take, any advice? ✌️

  9. yeeee there's something about having two stationary bikes indoors that you've helped set up that isn't quite giving me the "clueless" factor here xD But the investment is honestly only worth it once you get to a certain level well margins count

  10. conclusion: go for a shit before your ride and buy the 105, you'll lose the same weight and save lot of moneys

  11. In the past the biggest difference (besides weight) used to be the quality of hub and bottom bracket bearings and its sealings. The newest generation of 105 seems to be as good a choice as any of its predecessors.

  12. You'd instantly notice the difference when you're doing the shifting. The carbon Dura-ace levers would feel a lot warmer than the alloy 105 ones. I have Ultegra and 105 shifters and it's a noticeable difference.

  13. Let's compare apples to oranges and see which weighs more…. Come one guys, if you're going to do a video for the masses, get equal components. Weighing different ones is just rubbish.

  14. @Global Cycling Network Can you do a video comparing some of the lower groupsets. This would be great for amateur cyclists who don't quite want to bust the bank…yet.

  15. I put the new 105 GS rear derallieur on the back with a 40 tooth and it's excellent. That's with the 5800 53-39 crankset, and 105-5800 hoods, Don't listen to shimano, the new shadow cage goes upto at least 40. I've heard rumours of 42 but I'll let you guys check that… Can't see any reason to get Dura Ace unless it's electronic, so I'm off to watch that vid 🙂

  16. That's all fucking the same it's just purely marketing from the company to make a profit my bro. Is a pro racer up to now he uses his Shimano ultegra 1st Gen no problem

  17. Those aren't cooling fins on the Dura Ace brake disc. They are finger-guards to prevent peloton racers' fingers from being lopped off in a group-crash. They are marketed as cooling fins so racers won't cut them off to save a couple precious grams.

  18. Having ridden 20,000 on Dura ace they still look and feel like new. With spare parts readily available at ok prices. At the same time I’ve ridden a 105 set 5,000 and the finish looked pretty grubby. Replacement parts were not readily available and when I found parts it was more sensible to change the whole drive chain but went Ultegra. Again the callipers on the Dura Ace are like new whereas the rear calliper needs replacing on the 105. My take is that if you intend to keep the set for a long time Dura Ace might make more sense. 105’s are great though.

  19. Unless you are under 10% (men) body fat, go with the 105s and lose some weight. Easier to lose a pound of you than a pound off of the bike. Your pants will thank you.

  20. All I know is other than the color both cranks are hideous. I'd rathwr ride a better looking lesser group.

  21. I say ultegra is a waste of money, I had some problems with my 105 rear mech, bought the r8000 and kept the 105 shifters, I’ll say that the front derailleur is a little clumsy so maybe in the future I’ll buy dura ace front mech… but definitely not going to buy Ultegra, the weight difference is really small and the price is double

  22. 161g for the Duration Ace Rd, so basically the same as a long cage Suntour Cyclone MKII from over 30 years ago…meh
    And as for the weight saving, even up alpd'uez that's what 12seconds….hahaha, so the weight difference of the groupsets is meaningless

  23. My 07 Giant TCR came with the 105 group set and I love it. Been toying with the idea of "upgrading" to the newer 105 group set.

  24. You can either spend 1000+ USD on a Dura-Ace groupset or save 20$ every week on one pizza and 2 beers less. Either way, you'll save those 400 grams and still end up dropped by that 70yo dude who rode his old bike his entire life to commute 20k back and forth.

    Let's be real. The real upgrade here are the looks and the good feeling accomplishment that only ostentation will give you.
    Get it if money isn't a issue for you or if you are really competitive and 1 minute gain on a 50k ride is that important.

  25. My impression was that 105 = weekend rider, Ultegra = more serious everyday rider, Dura-ace = hard core racer or someone with deep pockets.

  26. I think one thing that isn't talked about is the size and weight of a rider, I'm in good shape but weigh in at 190 LBS (86 KG), is losing 1/2 kilo on my group set really going to help me? I have a 2018 Roubaix with 105 group set, absolutely love it , I've ridden the much moreexpensive Dura-Ace and other than loving the DI2 that it came with, I just don't see the justification for massive price difference. As soon as there is a DI2 option for the 105 I will certainly upgrade.

  27. You see….."Made for PROFESSIONALS and RACERS". Not even these guys (currently) 😉 This is a good video. ,(good, not being a actual thing)

  28. doesnt mean owning a ferrari have to drive fast.pro high end racing gear is not only for the fast rider.in fact now cycling is now luxury sport and duraace is just one of the items

  29. The weight saving I could make off my belly, in cycling manufacturing terms, would normally cost me about £6,000.

  30. Great information. Can you guys make a video listening the difference type of road bike from the worst to the greatest and what's different about them also can you include the name of the bikes.? Also is bike set height important when you're riding?

  31. The difference is Longevity and Weight…I upgraded all my 105 components decades ago to Dura-Ace and various smaller custom parts.
    Quality costs money, that's why they sell cheaper inferior parts…to make sure they don't go out of business from just sticking to the high end.
    Ill informed people think if something looks almost the same it is the same, seemingly never realizing that TIME will destroy a lower quality thing faster than it does a high quality thing.
    I'm 62 and I've been riding bikes( mostly road racing types) for 56 years..I've learned some things, one of them being…Buying quality = buying much less often.

  32. Can someone explain, why a few grams are important, and then people take two water jugs of a kilo each with them……

  33. Could you review the "Btwin ultra 900 cf bike?? Its got shatteringly good spec for value money, and as an owner of the bike I can testify to its awesomeness 😀

  34. I have been racing bikes since 1968 and yesterday at 64 I came first place. This has to do with DI2 and my secret training which entails no movement whatsoever.

  35. I have dura ace, not di2. Hydraulic disc brakes on my 2018 query based on this show, top of the line bike, and components. Comes with 52 36 front. Max possible on the back is 30, equivalent to 3428 approx. talking about weight ; disc brakes weigh more. 52 tooth weighs more than 50 as does 36 over a 34. And on the back, 30 likely weighs more than 28. Di2, battery etc has got to add to weight, hydraulic brakes add wt to the front of the bike. Question is. Why disc, why hydraulic and why 52/36 when they all add wt, even in dura ace components. ??? It’s heavy, has poor acceleration and climbing ability. Yes there’s more to it than that and that’s my point. It’s not just components and gearing that help in that respect.

  36. Dura-Ace to 105, half the weight and ten times the price. (At least where I live. A 105 is NT$10,000 and a top-end Dura-Ace is NT$100,000) But, I am happy with my 105.

  37. Hi Guys, Started looking for new road bike. You answered my question re: 105 vs Dura Ace systems. I remember 105s were tops. Bye Guys & Enjoyed Presentation 🚲👍

  38. I just got my first Dura-Ace part and it has WC stamped on it. I'd like to know more about the people who made it and what it was like to do that work. Even modern DA parts would be cool to learn about. It seems like a lot of hand finishing went into this.

  39. Wouldn't the best upgrade be the wheels and hubs. I mean you roll on those. I would guess over the miles how the bearings roll would really be significant, and it power transfer to the wheels.

  40. I plan on buying a Cannondale 105 Topstone this winter. The 105 gearing would have been well beyond my capabilities when I started this year but should provide a great workout for me next year with room to advance for several seasons. For the amount that I'll be paying, I sure hope I get several years out of that bike.

  41. Which should I change, my cassette or my crank to make climbing easier on my 55 yo body. I built my Litespeed Ultimate with 52/36 up front and 11-25 cassette. I want to either change to compact 50/34 or 12-28 out back. I know changing cassette is cheaper but which change will give me the easier climb? Also, if I change my Ultegra drive train crank to compact can I move it up to DuraAce with the rest of my drive train staying Ultegra?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *