How To Bleed New Sram MTB Brakes | Bleeding Edge Technology

(whooshing) (metallic clattering) – Now, bleeding your brakes is something that all mountain bikers will have to tackle from time to time, and in this particular video, we’re going to look at
bleeding SRAM brakes, and in particular, the latest ones using
the bleeding edge port. Now, the bleeding edge port
was a new creation from SRAM that makes bleeding a bit
easier and a lot less messy. Now, if you’re unsure if your
brakes have this new port, or it’s the older system, if you look onscreen now, the one on the left is the older system, and on the right is the newer system with the bleeding edge port. Now, this new system can be found on brakes manufactured from 2015 onward, but it’s not on every single model. So for this particular job, these are the tools you’re going to need. So to start with, you’re going to need the relevant
bleeding kit for your brakes. So there’s SRAM and Avid brakes, you need this sort of bleed setup. If you don’t want to get
the full SRAM spec one, Epic Bleed Solutions also make
a bleed kit that does fit, although I’ve not tried it, so I can’t tell you how good it is. Now, you’re going to need
a few other things as well. So first up, you’re going to
need the bleeding edge adaptor. So this is the regular
adaptor that suited the brake on the left that I showed you
at the beginning of the video. All right, this is the
new bleeding edge tool. Now, the advantage of using this is it locates straight into the brake, and the tool itself is used to open and close that bleed port so it minimises all the seepage that you get, and also the chance of air
getting back into the brake. Really nice, simple bit of kit. There’s just an adaptor, so if you’ve already got the
SRAM or the Avid bleed kit, you just need to get that
piece to complete the process. You’re going to need
the various bleed blocks to suit your particular brake calliper. The idea of that is to push
the pistons apart to get them in the right position basically
for when you bleed them. Next up, you’re going to
need the relevant Torx keys, in this case it is the T10 and the T25. And of course, Allen keys that are going to suit the job for your bike. In my case, to take the rear wheel out, I’ll need a six millimetre Allen key, you might not need one at all in yours. You’ll need a five, a
four, and a two and 1/2. Also, you’re going to need
some dedicated DOT fluid. Ideally I would say get some new fluid, because in time this stuff
can ingest moisture into it, which does affect the performance of your brakes in the long term, and will mean you’re going to need to do this process sooner. So if possible, a new fresh one. If not, just make sure it’s not cloudy or looks contaminated in any way. And now, I definitely recommend some decent nitrile rubber
gloves to protect your hands, because the DOT fluid is corrosive. I like to recommend people to use a set of decent needle nose pliers. Now, this is just for taking
off that little retaining clip on the retaining bolt that
goes through the pads. It’s not essential, you can take it off with your bare hands, but it does make it a lot
easier and a little less fiddly. And finally, you’re going
to need some shop towel or a clean rag to make sure
you can wipe the bike down, and obviously to lay the
bits out on the bench. And, some disc brake cleaner, it’s good as well to make
sure that all the parts of your brakes don’t have
any residue on afterwards that can take the paint off your bike. So, the first thing you need to do is a bit of brake calliper preparation. So obviously you need to get
the rear wheel out of the bike, and out of the way. In my case, it is a six
millimetre Allen key. So, make sure the rear derailleur
is locked out and ready so you can drop the wheel
out nice and easily. Now it’s really important
that you make sure that you put your rear wheel
completely out of harm’s way, and what I mean by that is
making sure there’s no chance that any brake oil can go anywhere near the rear disc rotor, because contamination
is the number one thing you do not want with brakes. Completely hinders performance, and you have to start fresh. So, next up is getting
the needle nose pliers, and very carefully just
removing the little clip here. You don’t want it to go pinging
off across the workshop. There we go. And as with any job, make sure
you take all the parts off and put them in the order
that you will remember when you reassemble things. In this case, I’m just going
to put this on the bench here because I’m going to
put the pads separate. So, it’s a two and a
1/2 millimetre Allen key to remove the retaining bolt. So, just unwind that from the calliper, slide that bolt out, and it’s time to remove the pads. Now, this is a really important bit. If you’ve got dirty hands, make sure they don’t go near
the actual brake pad surfaces. And of course, what you want
to do is make sure those pads are kept completely safe and
away from any contamination. So in this case, I’m
just going to put them inside a bit of shop towel here. Wrap that up and just keep
these here in the work stand for later on so I know that
they’re protected by that. Last thing you need to do for
your brake calliper preparation is slide the bleed block in place, and it’s got a little
slot running through it so you can just keep it in
place with that retaining bolt. So, I recommend you do do that to just make sure that
it can’t go anywhere and your brakes are going
to feel absolutely perfect once you’ve done this. There we go. Next stage is to get the
syringes ready for use, so this is where the
rubber gloves come in. So, I do recommend you use them. So many people do it without, and I’m guilty of not using
gloves a lot of the time because of the way I like things to feel, but I’ll always use them when playing around with stuff that’s corrosive, especially DOT brake fluid. It’s nasty stuff to get on your hands. So, the first syringe you
want to fill up with fluid is the one that goes into the lever that’s at the top of the bike. This is one with the old
style cap on the end there. And you’ll want to fill this
approximately two-thirds full. The next one is the one with
the bleeding edge adapter on, which I’m just installing
here already for use. Now, this needs a marginal
amount of fluid in it. It’s got to have some
fluid because it connects to the actual calliper itself, and you don’t want a chance of any air being able to
get into the calliper, but you’re bleeding from
the lever end to this end, so that way it’s going
to be purged into here. So, as much room as possible for that all to come through is what you’re aiming for. Now, when you fill these up, do take care because you’re going to need to make sure there are no
air bubbles inside them. So, you extract the oil
straight from the container, then you need to ensure that
there’s no air stuck in there. And the way to do that is
carefully just get it upright and put a rag over the end. You don’t want this to go anywhere, especially not near your eyes. And you just want to just
push the system through just so you’re getting rid of
that air that’s just in there. Like that, you can see it
rising up through the tube. Repeat that same process with the one with the bleeding edge on. Again on this one, you only need the tiniest
amount of fluid in here. There we go. So now, the syringe is all ready for use. Again, don’t forget, keep the gloves on, make sure you’ve got
plenty of lint-free rag or shop towel ready to
wipe up any spillages, and of course, if it goes anywhere near your frame, handlebars,
anything like that, get it wiped and cleaned off using this sort of disc brake cleaner or an isopropyl alcohol
as fast as you can really, just so it doesn’t get any
damage to your paintwork. Okay, so first up, starting
up at the bar end here. It might make it easier to
do this job for yourselves if you just have the lever horizontal, so that makes it a little less messy, and because you’re going
to working from the back of the bike as well as the
front at the same time, it makes it easier to reach too. So, using the T25, just
flatten off your brakes a bit. If your bike has contact adjustment, it’s a little dial on the front here, this particular one doesn’t, unwind it the opposite
direction of the arrow on there until it stops. Also, you want to make sure
the reach of the lever as well is between 75 and 80
millimetres at the end of the lever to the middle of the bar. Next up, you want to get the T10 and remove the bleed
screw that is on the top. Now, just be delicate as you remove this, because you don’t want to
disturb the bike too much. You may lose a little bit of
fluid out of the top here, just be ready for that, and wipe up any excess
that just comes out. Next up, it’s time to insert
the syringe into the lever end. Now, you just to make sure that the little red pinch
is snapped shut on here, because you don’t want oil
to travel in there yet, you’re just sealing they system
with this at the top end. Make sure that’s threaded
in nice and straight, and nice and snug. I’m just going to give this
another wipe around here to minimise the drippage. Another little tip I like to use is an extra piece of shop towel or rag. I just put this under
the lever and around it, so whilst I’m working on
it, it can catch anything, and also it does mean
that I’ve got easy access to stop it going anywhere. Now, it is important to note
the fact that the levers are obviously above the
front wheel of your bike. If you think there’s any danger that dropping oil could go
near your front disc rotor, remove your front wheel from the bike, make sure it’s stashed somewhere safely so the disc rotor is
protected from dripping oil. Next up is getting the bleeding
edge tool into the calliper. So, let’s do this. First up, you want to just remove the little rubber bottom there. And, just put that aside for safekeeping. Next is the four millimetre
Allen key head that’s in here. Now you just want to just loosen this, and then just nip it up tight again, but literally nip it tight. As you do this, a drop of oil
might come out of the calliper. Don’t worry about this. Of course, you might want to wipe it up. We’re obviously going to be pushing more oil through this way. This is just to make sure that it’s ready to receive the tool. I’m just going to insert that into there. There we go, just loosen that
and then just nip it tight. It just means that your pressure’s not on the tool to undo that head in there. Now next up is to take
the bleeding edge tool, push it into the calliper, and give it a firm push, and you’ll find it makes
a sort of a click noise. So, with the tool located in place so it clicks into place there, you then want to open the system. So, you want to undo this a turn. Don’t go more than two turns, because the screw will come out and all the oil will start coming out, and you’re going to have
to do this from scratch. So, bear in mind that when you open this, no oil is going to come through just yet because the lever clamp is holding the oil from coming through the lever end. But, get this done right, and you’re ready to start
the bleeding process. To start the bleeding process,
head up to the lever end, and you’re going to undo that lever clamp. Then simply, you just want to start pushing down on the plunger. Don’t go too fast. You want to do this nice and
slowly to give any air bubbles and muck in the system time
to sort of migrate through. Now, you want to be looking
here at the calliper end for any air bubbles and stuff coming out. Now, note if you’ve got enough
fluid inside the lever end to push through the whole system. So, keep an eye on the discoloration of the fluid coming out. If it’s particularly bad, black even, stuff like that, you might need to do this
again with another syringe full of fluid just to make
sure the system has got a complete load of nice, new, clean, uncontaminated fluid in there. Now, repeat pushing through until there’s no more air
bubbles coming out this end. You don’t need to go crazy on it, because it’s not completely finished yet, just make sure the bulk of it is good. With the calliper syringe vertical, hold that in your right hand, and then with your left hand, just pull up on the lever syringe, and you’re looking for any air
bubbles just travelling up, just like that little one there. Couple of microscopic
ones, but good I think. It’s a good, clear system. Nothing else travelling through. Okay, so that is good, there’s no more air travelling
up at the lever end, so now it’s time to close
it at the calliper end, and that means the system is closed, but the syringe is still in place, but that can stay there
for the time being. Now we go up to the lever end. What you want to do
here is bleed the lever, and it’s also about
pressurising the system. So, with it all still open at this end, don’t forget it’s closed
at the calliper end, pull the lever in, and release. Do this a couple of times, and you just want to
push this into the lever, and then pull out again a couple of times, just making sure there’s
no air coming of there. So, I’m convinced now that
there is no air travelling out of the lever itself, so one final pull out on the syringe and then push back in hard
just to pressurise the system, and now it’s time to just lock the syringe clamp into place there, and we’re good to start removing this. So now it’s time to remove
the syringe from the lever. Now just carefully unscrew this. Again, just make sure that the clamp on the hose is in place there, because otherwise you’re going to have fluid pushing its way through. As you do this, you will get
some leakage at the lever. So, just try and wipe up any
bits of leak you have there. There we go. The bolt was recommended to be torqued to 1.5 to 1.7 newton metres. I’ll check that in a minute, I just want to make sure that this is clean and contamination-free. (cleaner sprays) So, disc brake cleaner is ideal for this because it dries up. It’s a dry solvent. You can use contact cleaner
as well, or isopropyl alcohol. Put the boot back on. I’m happy with that. So, I’ll turn my brake lever
to the preferred angle, which is quite low in
this particular setting. Now it’s time to close
the system at the rear, and just make sure the calliper
is clean and contaminant-free before putting the brake
pads back in place. So now, with the lever
end of the bike closed, repeat the same process
at the bottom here. So, the first step is just to
remove the bleeding edge tool. It comes out, and you’ll
find that no oil comes out because it’s a nice, smart design. The next thing is to nip up the four millimetre bolt
that’s underneath that. Just make sure that’s snug. Now, it’s recommended to be tightened to 1.5 to 1.7 newton metres, just like the one on the
lever, the T10 there. So, you want to follow that up, and then the next step
is to just make sure that there’s no fluid loss around there. This is fine. And then just replace the rubber plug, and it’s time to take the bleed block out. Just give the calliper a clean, because sometimes if
any oil has dripped out, it would just be in a place where the pad surfaces will be later on. Then it’s a case of replacing the pads, putting the pin back through
and the circlet in place. So there you go. That is how simple it is to use the bleeding edge
port system on SRAM’s brakes. So, it’s pretty simple system, nice and easy for
everyone to bleed at home. Now, with that leftover
fluid that you’ve got, the clean stuff, you might want to mark this as unused, so you keep that on your shelf separately, and any old fluid, I do recommend that you get that recycled, get that disposed of correctly. So, you’re going to put that
in a different container. Make sure that it’s not
anywhere near food sources, and don’t just put it down the drain because this stuff is not
good for the environment. So, for a couple more useful videos, if you want to find out how to hip jump, nothing mechanical, but it’s a really cool video with Blake kicking it
on some massive jumps, click down here. And if you want 10 ways
to refresh your bike, it’s a non-cost video really, it’s just about sensible
stuff in maintaining and making the most out
of your bike for the year, click down here. As always, click on
the globe to subscribe. We’ve got new content for
you every single week, and if you like the video
or if you found it helpful, give us a thumbs up.

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100 thoughts on “How To Bleed New Sram MTB Brakes | Bleeding Edge Technology

  1. Hi doddy the epic kit works fine,you just have to purchase the sram bleed kit and graft it to the epic syringes,they don’t have the same thread so I just cut the silicon pipe on the bleed edge tool and pushed it over the epic syringe fitting👍TBH I have the new code r brakes on my mega but I keep getting dot fluid coming out of the reservoir witness hole on the lever,I’m waiting on a replacement diaphragm from sram as it was like it from new,it must be a tiny hole as I couldn’t see it and i only get a drop or two after each ride,but bleeding is becoming a chore 😂🤘

  2. Whoever at GMBN green lighted Doddy and the Tech Channel, you are a genius! Doddy is far and away the best presenter for tech and how-to's. Thanks!

  3. You can remove the little clip in the retaining pad bolt with the 2.5mm allen key. The clip has the eyebolt that is exactly sized for the 2.5mm allen key and in this way you won't lose it

  4. I really don't get why SRAM is so keen on this toxic, low shelf life garbage, especially in the higher ranges. Price isn't something people who want the best are too concerned of. Industries adopt better practices from competitors all the time. They should swallow their pride.

  5. How does the fluid blacken in a closed system? Maybe it's the o-rings in the caliper or lever? Bled my Guide RS for the first time after 2 seasons and 2 sets of pads and the fluid was dark.

  6. Hey GMBN Tech-Team!

    Can you make a Video about the installation of bottomless rings on a RS Vivid Air R2C? I can't find any tutorial to do this at a Vivid Air or is it really that similiar to the installation at a Monarch?

    Greetings from Germany!

  7. I've got a quick trick for not wasting any DOT fluid getting the air out of the syringes. Don't push fluid out of the hose until the air leaves the syringe. Wasteful. 1) With the hose pointing up, pinch the hose with the red clip. 2) Slowly loosen the hose where it attaches to the syringe. 3) Gently push on the syringe while loosening the hose until the trapped air can be forced out past the seal. 4) Once the air pocket disappears and a little bit of DOT fluid starts to show around the hose seal, re-tighten the hose to the syringe. Done.

  8. In their instructional videos, SRAM recommends depressurizing the fluid to get any dissolved air out. For reasons stated below, I have stopped doing this. You don't do it either, how much impact do you think it has on servicing intervals?

    With regards to depressurizing: My LBS only had the standard SRAM bleed kit on offer (the one that is all plastic). I would definitely recommend against it, it's a total waste of money, and get the "pro" version instead (the one with the metal rods in the syringe and, more importantly, the metal screw-on caps on the hoses. I found the plastic hose caps don't seal anywhere near properly, and leak oil out or air in when under any kind of (negative) pressure. The coarse threading on them gives you no option for tightening to avoid this.

  9. First of all: super channel (best of gmbn). Keep it up!!!
    Maybe stupid question, but how do you clean the bleeding kit? In one of my syringes there was still a reasonable amount of fluid from the last time and it turned completely in a white milky colour. I want to use the kit again but i think it's best to clean it first. What do I use without contamenating the next fluid that goes in it? Thx

  10. Doddy,

    I changed the pads today and cleaned the rotors as they’ve been squealing!!

    Put them all back together and the brakes are rock solid and pretty much on.

    Is this normal with bike maintenance? I seem to have very poor luck in this department.

    I’ve just ordered a bleed kit.

    Have I done something wrong?

  11. Don't buy avid's brake fluid just go to an auto store and buy a $5 bottle with three times the amount of brake fluid as long as it's. Dot 5 you're good

  12. I have the same brakes used in this video when I bled my leaver I pressurize the system and took the syringe out, oil shot out of the hole. I figured I push too hard so I glad everything again but this time push on the syringe very Softly did it again and very softly and still had the same issue. Brakes felt fine even though that happened but what could I be doing wrong.

  13. Have guide brakes on my new bike and there is a lot of travel on the levers. Do I need to bleed the whole system or just pressurise them more as per the latter part of the vid? As ever Doddy great video I am a MTB Nube and have been able to a lot of my own maintenance from watching your vids. Didn't have one for sticky calliper pistons though had to go to the darkside and watch some one else's!!

  14. I have SRAM Level brakes on my new bike and have had lots of trouble with consistent and unsymmetrical caliper retraction. They have been bleed several times and then my lbs said there was a recall on the levers so were replaced under warranty. I am constantly resetting the calipers. I never had trouble with my Shimano brakes on my old bike. Do SRAM brakes have a tighter tolerance on how far they retract?

  15. I first watched srams own how to bleed with bleeding edge. I guess my brain is to slow or smth but Doddys guide is so much better. He speaks and show you in a way that make it look easy.

  16. i have a problem, i did it like this video showed it, but after 20 minutes of bleeding process there are still bubbles coming, not many but there are… are my brakes defective? great video and doddy is a god when it comes to explaining repairs etc. Keep up the good work! sorry for my english it is not my native language 😉

  17. Followed this video precisely, tried 3 times , didn’t work for me, it’s off to the LBS to get it sorted:-(

  18. first of all, great channel. doddy u're awesome. about the bleeding: i got myself an avid kit for my sram guide rs breaks (2017 model) but noticed that the the fitting (golden) of the syringe is threated and therefore different from the syringe fitting you are using in your clip. does it also work with the threated syringe for the sram models after 2015? would like to avoid opening the packaging in terms of a possible exchange…

  19. How to properly set up the SRAM guide: loosen the the two bolts on the front and rear of your brake caliper. Loosen the bolt on your brake lever. Remove SRAM guide. Install Shimano brakes. Done!

    SRAM Brakes are hot garbage. I know that because I have the "pleasure" of owing a bike with a guide r and I absolutey hate it.

  20. + GMBN Tech Why didn't you also pressurize bleed the caliper. You did with the lever but not the caliper. Is there a reason for that? I know with 2016 or older you do have to.

  21. Sweet video, how to I stop this problem.. I bleed them they work great, until I do a big downhill and get everything real hot..then they suck again and I have to watch the video again and re-do it… They don't suck but they get a bit spongy and never recover until i re-bleed.

  22. After disconnecting the lever syringe, so much oil leaves the bleedport, that the the lever isn’t pressurised enough. Is there a trick for not letting too much oil being pushed out of the leverbleedport? This problem only appears with the back brake (longer hose?). I hope someone has the golden tip!

  23. I take it that you then just return the the contact and lever reach adjustment back to the original settings?

  24. Why are you trying to bleed the brakes pushing the air downhill, air rises so start with full syringe at the bottom (caliper) end and bleed it up to the lever

  25. Watched a few other videos today on this, none compare. No weird things that don't make sense and straight to the job.

  26. I was looking into buying a bike that comes with those SRAM breaks. After watching this video I know that this would be a big mistake. I can bleed my shimano brakes in a few minutes with a crappy syringe and a little funnel (everything you need put together costs $2 on Aliexpress). This is a lot more work. Shimano XT on my new bike for sure.

  27. I along with hundreds have this problem on days over about 32 C. The brakes jam so hard that the wheels lock. I don't like these RS Guide brakes anyway, as they have a sloppy and limp feel, and this issue is extremely dangerous and inconvenient. I will return to XTs or even SLXs. I will never ger SRAM brakes again

  28. #askgnmbtech hey guys love the show, Doddy I have SRAM RS and SRAM RSC breaks however I have to pull the leaves to the bar to get full lock on my break, I have small hands so have the leaves adjust quite close to the bar any ways, would this have an affect on the bite point of the break, the RSC has a bite adjustment and even when that's fully screwed in I have the same issue. Would a bleed of my breaks fix this or does it need more fluid. Thanks in advance

  29. OK, I had to change levers on my Guide R brakes so needed to bleed them after. I watched the Sram video and this one several times, then ordered all the tools, and started. Took two tries but got the front brakes great. The rear were a different story. So I watched the video again to make sure. After six tries, the final one with the caliper completely off the bike so I could get the hose straight to make sure no air was being trapped, I had to go off script. No matter what I did, after pressurizing the system a little, when I would remove the syringe from the lever it would squirt back some fluid and leave the lever too soft. (again this worked fine on the front) I finally, carefully, put the bleeding point syringe back on the caliper, and pressurized the system, just a little, from there. Now the rear are as solid as the front.

  30. Is it okay to use silencer spray on disc brake pads? I have some disc brake silencer spray from Swissstop. What are the pros and cons with that product?

  31. Just got a bike with SRAM hydraulic brakes for the first time. Really doesn't seem much better than my old V-brakes as I only ride XC. Can't remember an instance where I thought, I need more braking power. Anyway this process seems overly complicated and costly. When it's time to bleed these brakes I think I will just put on a mechanical caliper and be done with it.

  32. Got some squishy feeling guides, so will have to give this a go shortly. Is it worth letting the pistons free up a little whilst the pads are out (mine seem to come out one side dominanat)?

  33. Thanks for the tech info GMBN
    Shimano XT vs SRAM code R, hello to whoever is interested in my experience. I have had XT and currently I’m ridding code R, if I knew what I know now I would have replaced the code R directly on my new bike for the XT BR-M8020 (or Magura MT7 little bit overkill for me). I have had zero problems for 3 years with my XT and now ridding code R for 4 months I’m almost at the point of replacing them. So why: They just do not quite functionate as how a good set of disc brakes should + pour material quality, rotors rust, cheap paint, oversized components, (DIY) unfriendly to work one, never quite the result you where hoping for after some tlc and so long. My girlfriend rides SLX for over 2 years and are in better condition than my code R, we ride 95% of the times together. I hope that I saved some people from wasting their time, money and frustration. Something about myself I’m a perfectionist very technical skilled and realistic. (Last summer in Austria a DH bike rental place told us they replace all Sram brakes directly and sell them for dirt cheap new, they just do not want to bother using them. That should have been a motivation for me to replace them directly but I did not, regrets big time.)

  34. If you have Shimano brakes you can use that extra hour of time that you save to actually ride a bike :D.

  35. Why and how can you pressurize the system when the fluid leaks out after removing the syringe. Why can't you seal the lever end off and pressurize the system from the caliper end seeing as that can be locked off before disconnecting the syringe?

  36. Jo good video! This is just another reason to just buy some shimano brakes tho. What the hell is SRAM thinking?

  37. FYI plain water will clean and flush DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1 brake fluids. They are not corrosive, but are reactive to paint, plastics, and other coatings. They are alcohol based, and will absorb water out of the air. The only real difference between the 3 types are their boiling point.

  38. How does this process work one brand new hoses that aren't pre-filled? As in, there is no oil currently in the brake system? Thanks.

  39. Getting a 2020 Stumpjumper next week with this system on it. Right on time finding this video!!! Thanks Dod!

  40. Cheers Doddy. Bought the SRAM bleed kit for Code/Guide R/RS. Watched your vid a few times, now bleed all my bikes with confidence and getting results as good as a shop. It does take practice, but massive reward when doing it yourself. Cheers Bud.

  41. Thank you for all of these great videos! I just bled my front and rear brakes on a brand new bike and my Guide R's have firmed up like 2x!!

  42. No cylinders/pistons check in this procedure? It is a-must to check are they moving freely (and clean them if not).

  43. Comment and question. I am under the impression one advantage of DOT 5.1 is that it cleans up great with mere water. That there is no need for 91% isopropyl alcohol or aerosol brake fluid cleaner. Am I wrong? (Folks still recommend cleaning contaminated rotors with brake fluid cleaner as it dries so fast.)

  44. Is it problematic if you only do the last step (bleed the lever) if you don’t have the right seringue for the caliper. Will the brake feel less spongy by doing this waiting for the right tool ?

  45. I was hating my SRAM levers as there was too much slack. I solved it by designing this.

  46. Man, that was superbly done. If university profs could teach that well, it would mean a revolution had occurred. Thanks a million.

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