Fix Skateboard Razor Tail, Chips, and Delamination

bjbj ve got a deck here with a really busted
nose and the plies of wood have started to come apart from each other, so I m going to
show you how to fix this problem. If you ride a deck for a really long time, you could end
up with a thin-tail known as razor-tail and this could lead to delamination which is when
the plies of wood start to come apart from each other. Another way you can get delamination,
obviously, is by slamming your board into a ledge, wall, or a curb. Now, if you do have
delamination that, let s say, is about a month old and you didn t slam it into a wall or
it wasn t caused from a razor tail, take it back to the shop that you got it at or call
the manufacturer and they should replace it because it s probably a manufacturer s defect.
Now, if you do have both a chip and delamination, watch this video first and then watch the
video on how to fix a chipped deck. So, let s get started What we re going to do is show
you how to glue the plies of wood back together to make the board stiff again which will give
it some pop-back and hopefully prevent any more damage from happening. If your deck has
long cracks on the top ply like this one, it s best to remove the grip-tape. You can
remove a small section if you want to, and if you don t know how to remove grip-tape,
we have a video that will show you how to do it in less than five minutes. For inspecting
the plies or layers of wood I like to use a small flathead screwdriver. I ll also use
the screwdriver to hold the layers apart so I can get the glue deep between the layers.
Twisting the screwdriver half a turn will help open up the layers. This board has a
couple of plies that have come apart. You can also see that some of the plies have chipped
and we ll get rid of that later after we glue the plies back together. When you start gluing
it s a good idea to start from the bottom plies first. If you start at the top, the
glue can drip down and cover up your work area. There really is no right or wrong way
to do this; all you need to do is just spread open the plies and squeeze some glue in. When
we add clamps, the glue will spread out more between the plies. If the glue seems to be
running or dripping all over, it s okay to wipe it off because it will drip a lot more
when we add the clamps next. Continue to add as much glue as necessary. Don t worry about
using too much glue s better to have too much than not enough. If you have cracks like this
board, feel free to pry open the top layer from the side. It will help to push the wood
up so you can get inside more. Wipe away any excess glue so you won t have to spend a lot
of time sanding it off when it dries. Here s how the board looks after I wiped off the
extra glue Here s what you need for clamping the wood together: two clamps (these are one-inch
C-clamps, about a buck a piece), a sheet of wax paper or some left-over grip-tape paper
(have the shiny side down if you use it this will prevent whatever you use as a clamping
call from being glued to your deck.) I ll be using a metal ruler. You can use a strip
of wood or whatever you have that s flat or hard. A clamping call will keep the deck from
getting dented from the clamps and evenly distribute pressure. When you put the clamps
on, space them out about two to three inches apart and align them over the center of the
problem area. Also be sure the clamp isn t touching the edge of the deck so it doesn
t get glue to it. Wipe away any glue dripping out, if you d like. If you don t clamp the
wood plies together, it won t get fixed properly. The plies of wood could come apart again and
it won t feel right when you skate so we don t recommend skipping this part at all. Let
the glue dry for a day before removing the clamps. Peel off the paper and any stuck pieces
of paper. Here s what this deck looks like after drying this glue dries colorless. If
you ve got glue that dries white, that s totally okay. Now, I can start sanding. What I m going
to do is remove the glue first and reshape the deck a little bit. The next thing to do
is sand heavily against the edge of the deck. Basically, I m trying to flam the edge or
make it square. This will remove a lot of razor tail and it only makes the tail shorter
by about an 1/8 of an inch, which is hardly anything. I m using 60 grit sandpaper. You
can use 80 or 100 grit, but it may take longer to sand. You can also use old grip tape if
you d like. If you don t have a sanding block to hold the sandpaper, you can use an old
cassette tape case or a bearing case like I have here. The more I sand, the more you
can see how the deck is getting its shape back. The chunk that was taken out of the
center of this deck is now getting a lot smaller. I could add wood-filler later or I could leave
it if it seems like it s not going to cause any problems. This is a great way to reduce
or eliminate razor tail. As you can see, the nose of this deck is thicker, stronger, and
for the most part, completely repaired. It was also cheap to fix, saved me money from
buying a new deck, and was really easy and quick to do. Now you know how to fix delamination,
razor tail or a busted nose just using some wood glue and some clamps. If you have any
questions about this video or anything skate-related, send us a message and if you want to know
any more tips, check out the rest of our videos or click around hXA{ gdXA{
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